Creative & Specialty

Hard Money Loans Explained: How Fix-and-Flip Financing Really Works

By Timothy George · Founder, Infinity Financial Mortgage Corp · 7 min read

If you've ever watched a house-flipping show and wondered how someone buys a beat-up house, closes in a few days, and starts swinging hammers before a normal buyer would even have their loan approved — this is the thing that makes it possible. It's called hard money, and it's probably the single most misunderstood loan out there.

People hear "hard money" and picture something shady — a back-alley loan shark deal. It's not that. It's a real, legitimate tool investors use every day. But it is expensive money, and if you don't understand how it works, it'll eat a deal alive. So let me show you how fix-and-flip financing actually works, before anybody sells you on it. And stick with me, because the piece that trips people up isn't the interest rate — it's a completely different way of deciding how much you can borrow.

Asset-based lending: the lender isn't looking at you

Start with the basic idea. A normal mortgage is income-based lending. The bank is looking at you — your paystubs, your credit, your debt-to-income ratio — deciding whether you can repay this loan over thirty years.

Hard money is the opposite. It's asset-based lending. The lender isn't really looking at you at all. They're looking at the property, asking one question: if this falls apart and I take this house back, can I sell it and get my money out? That's it. The house is the collateral, and the house is what's getting approved — not you. That's exactly why a flipper with the right deal gets funded fast even when a traditional bank would never touch that half-gutted property.

ARV: the one number the whole deal revolves around

Here's the number the entire hard money world revolves around, and most people have never heard it explained: the after-repair value, the ARV.

The ARV is what the house will be worth after it's fixed up — not what it's worth today in its rough condition. A hard money lender will typically lend you a percentage of that future, fixed-up value — usually 65 to 75 percent of the after-repair value. So they're lending against what the house becomes, not the run-down house sitting there now. That's how an investor can buy the property and fund a big chunk of the renovation all in one loan.

The trade-off is you'd better hit that after-repair number, because the lender already baked it in. If your finished value comes in low, you're the one holding the gap — not them.

The real cost: short terms, high rates, and points

Now the cost, because this is where people flinch. Hard money is short-term money — usually six to eighteen months, not a thirty-year loan. And it is priced high. You're looking at rates well above a normal mortgage — roughly 10 to 13 percent — plus something called points.

A point is one percent of the loan amount, paid up front, just to get the money. So on top of a high rate, you might pay two to four points up front, right out of the gate. And many hard money loans are interest-only, so your monthly payment covers just the interest while you renovate, and the full balance comes due in one lump when you sell or refinance.

FeatureHard money loanConventional mortgage
What's underwrittenThe property (ARV)You (income, credit, DTI)
Loan basis~65–75% of after-repair value% of today's purchase price / appraisal
Interest rateRoughly 10–13% (varies widely)Prevailing market rate
Points up front~2–4 points0–a few (optional buydown)
Term6–18 months, often interest-only15–30 years, amortizing
Speed to closeDaysWeeks

Ranges are illustrative. Hard money is private, non-agency lending — exact rates, points, LTV/ARV limits, and terms vary widely by lender and deal.

Think of it like renting a race car for one lap 🏎️

A thirty-year mortgage is the reliable car you own and pay off slowly. Hard money is a race car you rent by the lap — brutally fast when you need speed, but the meter runs hot and it's due back almost immediately. It's the perfect tool if you know the track and have a clear finish line. It's a disaster if you're just hoping to figure it out on the way around.

The bank-versus-you angle

I've been in this business since 2007 — before loan officers even needed a license — and here's the truth: the hard money lender's incentive is not the same as yours. They make their money on the points and the interest, up front and fast.

Some of the aggressive ones will happily approve a loan where the numbers are thin, because their downside is protected — they hold the house. Yours isn't. If the flip goes sideways, they get the asset back and you eat the loss. That's not evil, it's just the structure. So the question is never "will they lend me the money." It's "does this deal actually work after I pay for all this expensive money" — and you have to run that math yourself, because the lender won't run it for you.

Who hard money is for — and who should run

Hard money is for investors and flippers — people buying a property to fix and sell, or to fix and refinance into a normal loan once it's stabilized. It's for the person who knows their after-repair value cold, has a real renovation budget with a cushion, and has a clear exit.

What it is not for is a regular person buying a home to live in. If that's you, this is the wrong tool — you want a normal mortgage, and you should run from anyone steering you into hard money for your own house. And even for investors, the deal has to be strong enough to carry all that cost. Thin deal plus expensive money equals a wipeout.

The one question that protects you Before you take a dollar of hard money, ask yourself: "If this house sits for six extra months and my rehab runs over budget, does this deal still make money — or does it bury me?" That's the whole test. Hard money rewards the disciplined investor with a real plan and punishes the optimist who's winging it.

Run the numbers before anyone pitches you

Use the free affordability calculator to work from real figures first. Free, and I don't originate loans — so there's nothing being sold to you on the other end.

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Want the plain-English breakdown of the whole creative and specialty financing world — hard money, bridge loans, and the rest of the tools most people (and even a lot of loan officers) don't really understand? That's exactly what the creative & specialty financing guide is for.

Frequently asked questions

How does a hard money loan actually work?
It's asset-based lending. Instead of underwriting your income, credit, and debt-to-income like a normal mortgage, the lender underwrites the property, asking one question: if you default and I take this house back, can I sell it and get my money out. The house is the collateral and the house is what gets approved, which is why an investor with the right deal can close fast on a property a traditional bank would never touch.
What is ARV, and why does it matter so much?
ARV stands for After Repair Value — the estimated value of the property after it's fully renovated, not what it's worth in its current rough condition. A hard money lender typically lends about 65 to 75 percent of that future value, which lets an investor fund the purchase and much of the rehab in one loan. The risk: if the finished value comes in below the ARV, you're the one who has to cover the gap.
What do hard money loans cost?
Hard money is short-term, expensive money. Terms usually run six to eighteen months, rates run well above a normal mortgage, and you also pay points — one point equals one percent of the loan amount, paid up front. Many are interest-only, so the monthly payment covers just interest during the renovation and the full balance comes due when the property sells or refinances. Exact rates, points, and terms vary widely by lender because hard money is private, non-agency financing.
Who should not use a hard money loan?
It's built for investors and flippers buying to fix and sell (or fix and refinance) who know their ARV cold, have a real renovation budget with a cushion, and have a clear exit. It's the wrong tool for a regular person buying a home to live in — use a normal mortgage instead, and be wary of anyone steering you into hard money for a primary residence. Even for investors, a thin deal plus expensive money can turn into a loss.

Related free resources: Affordability Calculator · creative & specialty financing guide · all calculators

Educational content only — not financial, mortgage, or legal advice, and not a loan offer or solicitation. Timothy George is the founder of Infinity Financial Mortgage Corporation and has been in the mortgage business since 2007; he is not a currently-licensed loan originator and does not originate loans. Hard money is private, non-agency financing — it is not backed by Fannie Mae, Freddie Mac, FHA, or VA, and its rates, points, ARV/LTV limits, and terms vary widely from lender to lender. For general consumer information on mortgage costs, points, interest-only structures, and how to compare loan offers, see the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau (CFPB). Program terms, rates, and eligibility rules change over time and vary by lender — confirm the current rules and your specific situation with a currently-licensed professional before you act.